I stayed at a lake-facing property on my first visit to Nainital and a hillside guesthouse on my second, about two years apart. The contrast between the two experiences was sharp enough that it changed how I think about choosing accommodation in hill stations generally.
Both have a strong case. Neither is the obviously correct answer. But having tried both, I now have a clearer sense of which one I would choose again, and more importantly, why.
Staying in Nainital Facing the Lake
The Convenience Is Real
Naini Lake is the centre of gravity in Nainital, both geographically and in terms of how the town organises itself. Staying on Mallital or Tallital, the two main lakeside stretches, puts you within walking distance of the Mall Road, the boating point, and most of the town’s restaurants and shops.
On my first visit, I walked to dinner every evening and never once needed transport during the day. That convenience is not a small thing in a hill town where roads can be narrow and parking limited.
The Drawback Nobody Mentions Upfront
What the lakeside properties do not advertise as clearly is the noise and density that come with that same convenience. Mall Road gets genuinely crowded during peak season, particularly between April and June and again around the winter holidays.
Likewise, this crowd noise carries up into many of the lake-facing rooms well into the evening. My room had a lovely view of the lake and considerably less peace than I had expected.
Views That Change Through the Day
The view itself is worth acknowledging on its own terms. Watching the lake shift colour through the day, deep green in the morning light, then a flatter grey under midday sun, and finally catching the reflected lights of Mall Road after dark, is genuinely one of Nainital’s better visual experiences. If the view matters more to you than the quiet surroundings, the lakeside is hard to argue against.
Staying on the Hillside of Nainital
A Different Pace Entirely
My second stay was on the slopes above Mallital, close to the Mall Road, but elevated enough that the walk down took a steady fifteen minutes and the walk back up considerably longer.
The trade-off was immediate. The room was quieter, the air noticeably cooler, and the view looked down across the rooftops and the lake from a distance rather than sitting directly beside it.
The Climb Is the Real Cost
The honest downside of hillside stays is the climb itself, particularly after a long day of sightseeing. Therefore, the idea of walking back uphill is considerably less appealing than it sounded that morning.
Auto-rickshaws and taxis cover this route easily enough. However, relying on them every evening adds a cost and a logistical step that lakeside properties simply do not require.
Better Sleep, Better Mornings
What the hillside stay gave me that the lakeside one did not was genuinely restful sleep and a much better experience of the early morning. Waking up to a quiet hillside view, with mist sitting over the lake below before the day’s crowds arrive, was a noticeably different start to the day compared to waking up to the sound of Mall Road already stirring.
What this Actually Comes Down to
If You Are Visiting for a Short Trip
For a one or two-night stay focused on covering the main sights, Naini Devi Temple, the boating, Mall Road, and a short trip up to Snow View Point, the convenience of staying lakeside probably outweighs the noise. Since you will be out and about most of the time, the proximity saves meaningful time on a short visit.
If You Are Staying Longer or Want to Actually Rest
For a longer stay, or simply a trip where rest is part of the point rather than constant movement, I would choose the hillside again. The quieter sleep and the more scenic mornings are worth the daily climb, particularly once you settle into the rhythm of it after the first day.
Where to Look for Hotels in Nainital?
There are hotels in Nainital across both categories in a wide range of budgets, and most listings specify whether a property sits on Mall Road, on the lake edge, or further up the slopes above Mallital or towards Ayarpata Hill. Reading that detail carefully before booking matters more here than in most hill stations, given how differently the two experiences play out.
What I Would Pick Next Time?
Given the choice again, I would go hillside, accepting the climb in exchange for the quiet. But I would not discourage anyone choosing convenience over peace either. Nainital is small enough that neither choice puts you far from the other, and a short walk or quick auto ride bridges the gap either way.